Upper Manatee River from Rye Preserve

May 11
Upper Manatee River from Rye Preserve



 It has been a month since my last trip and I needed to get on it! I didn't feel like driving a long distance, so I decided on the Manatee River which I had never paddled before. The name sounds familiar as I had paddled the Little Manatee in January, which is a more popular paddling destination. I knew very little about the Manatee River except for driving over it on I75 on numerous occasions. It runs from the little town of Parrish all the way to the Gulf. At the point it runs under I75, it is very large, about a quarter mile wide. I have seen it where it empties into the Gulf from a park in Bradenton, which is a beautiful spot, but I like narrow, winding, and twisting rivers, so I would be paddling the upper portion. I did read a very colorful article about paddling this section of the river online; the article described this part as home to rednecks and terrifying "river monsters", namely massive alligators, bull sharks, and escaped pet pythons. Once I read that, I was hooked, well maybe not about rednecks.I decided to find Ray's Canoe Escape, and paddle this sucker.
 Except......Ray's was closed. On a Wednesday of all days. I headed down Upper River Road hoping to find a river access point. Once reaching Rye road, I found the sign to Rye Preserve and I entered, hoping to find a spot to throw my kayak in. The road was bumpy as hell, but the deserted nature of the place seemed promising. I immediately found the kayak launch in a picnic area which had a small sign that indicated a launch was there at the end of a hiking trail. The launch was located down a sandy path that led to a wooden railed "staircase" that led to the river. The last step was very big and a test for my wonky right knee. It is a nice little portage for those who love to lug their kayaks around and get a little lifting exercise in before their paddle. Honestly, the scenery is so beautiful, I didn't mind it. The steps and rails were put in by a boy scout for his Eagle project. Very nice and much appreciated. The admission is FREE and Rye Preserve looks like a hidden gem. It even has camping!
 I decided to head down river to Ray's place and then go upriver to the dam and back. This would total about 10 miles and would get me right at 100 miles, give or take one or two. From the launch to Rye bridge the river is very beautiful and has clear amber colored tannin water. The banks are often lined by huge domed sandy beaches. The banks are sandy and steep, about 7 feet high. After the bridge, the river widens to about 50-75 feet wide and you pass some houses. Too civilized. It reminds me a bit of the beginning of Shell Creek. I reach Ray's at about 9:45 am, a little over an hour on the river. I turn back upriver for the 5 mile trek to the dam. I spy a 6 foot alligator shyly hiding in the fern and palm covered riverbank. I was expecting to see a few huge bull alligators bellowing mating calls in this the mating season, but it was not to be.
 At the beginning of the Manatee is a dam. This was created, I guess, for the creation of Lake Manatee, a large recreational area.At times of heavy rainfall, the gates are opened and release the floodwater.When the gates are opened a siren is sounded, warning boaters of the increased volume and flow of water.I don't expect to hear the siren today as it hasn't rained in awhile, but that would be exciting.
 Soon after passing the launch point I find a perfect picnic area and stop for brunch. There is a huge sandbar and right across from it lies an entrance of a small but significant stream that is signaled by small rapids and gin clear water. This is Rye Branch, a small stream that goes North for a couple of miles. I follow it for a quarter mile or so, wading in the crytal clear, shallow water. It is not at all tannin stained and contrasts nicely, like cream in coffee or tea, where it enters the main river. I don't know if its origin leads to a spring, but I suspect so. It looks like a mini Juniper Creek. This spot is perfect for a pee and a sandwich and reflecting. I spot a few littered beer cans and red solo cups which I place in the back of my kayak. A place this perfect doesn"t need trash. I need to start bringing a trash bag with me. Continuing on, the river narrows and weaves through more sand bars and deadfalls and strainers. It becomes very shallow, and the river assumes a very pretty honey and amber color. I have to zig zag through to find deep enough channels to paddle in. The fish appear as well as I spot several foot long plecos, an invasive species of algae eaters. I also spot a few bass. Mullet are more plentiful down river, as they attempt to leap in your boat. The banks seem to grow higher and then they turn into very steep verticle limestone walls. At this point, the water deepens considerably and is much darker and mysterious. It widens a bit to 30 feet across. Here it has a true jungle feel. I see a semi large alligator slip into the water well ahead of me. I also spot a fair sized one as I round a turn, accompanied by a couple of babies. Right above the gator nest is a rope swing. There is one large house towering over the river with a confederate flag flying proudly; next to it sits a dilapitated dock. It is somewhat hidden in the dense canopy. Soon I spy the huge dam which is my turn around point. It is massive. I would not want to be around anywhere near this spot when they release the water.
    The return trip is uneventful but beautiful. I stop on a sandbar that threatens to suck me waist deep in quicksand. Very soft in some spots and firm in others. I cool off in the shallow water as the heat and humidity are starting to take its toll. The water is very cool and refreshes me instantly. Today I have added a few years to my life. A recent study that has made the rounds lately is that hiking adds years to your life and is very beneficial. I would definately put paddling in that same category. I return at around 1pm. Another kayaker arrives as soon as I do. There are maybe two others here and that's it. One thing I noticed about Rye Preserve is how quiet it is here. On a weekday like this, you may well be the only one here and that's great!

Rye Preserve is located just off of  Rye Road  where it crosses the Manatee River. Take I75 to SR 64, head East about 8 miles to Rye Road. Head North until you cross the river. Opens at 8am daily until sunset.